Backpacking While Black

Bahamas, August 2006: Day 1, August 24, 2006, Nassau (Arrival, Beach, Conch and Celebration)

The clouds took on the random shapes of animals, objects and even countries as I was lying on my back in the crystal clear Caribbean waters of The Bahamas. An hour before I was on a rough flight from Miami praying for rest and stability. I was traveling since 4 a.m. and even though I considered myself an even keeled traveler, I was beginning to unravel as sleep deprivation took its hold. I was here for my best friend’s, Craig’s, wedding to his high school sweetheart, Kandice. They had picked me up from Nassau International Airport and within an hour they took me to a beach off West Bay Street near Kandice’s parent’s home. I soon realized why Craig and Kandice, native Bahamians, missed their homes so much. It was paradise in every sense from the food, people and atmosphere.

Within the second hour of my arrival I was enjoying the chewy yet delectably sinful national dish of The Bahamas, conch. We had added Kandice’s best friend and matron of honor, Nicole, to our group and ate lunch at the Twin Brothers (Arawak Cay, West Bay Street) restaurant in the popular Nassau hangout officially called Arawak Cay, but unofficially and widely known as the Fish Fry. I was famished seeing that I was surviving on a croissant sandwich meal from Burger King eaten at 5 a.m. I ordered a large plate of conch fritters with Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese, and plantains. Now, let’s get this straight. I officially love Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese. American macaroni and cheese is soupy. Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese is firm, baked and gooey much like lasagna. The sweet plantains complimented the spicy conch fritters. Altogether, the whole meal was tropical comfort food. I topped everything off with a sky juice, coconut water mixed with gin, condensed milk and nutmeg. The food, alcohol and sleep deprivation caught up with me as I found myself knocked out in the front seat of Craig’s car.

Craig and Kandice were merciful as they dropped Nicole and me off back at Kandice’s parents to rest. The evening’s festivities would require our full energy. Craig’s family was throwing him a party at his uncle’s home in the hills east of Nassau. After two hours of blissful napping, we woke, showered, dressed and sweated our way to the party. It took a while for my body to adjust to the heat and humidity. Thankfully there was a strong breeze from the ocean, but the breeze’s effects were negated as we drank copious amounts of Kalik (Bahamian beer) and wine, and ate more Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese, and chicken. The bridal party was fully assembled with the exception of two people so we took the opportunity to introduce ourselves to each other and get drunk together.

Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t here to get drunk, but there was a definite atmosphere of celebration amongst Craig’s family. I believe he was the first grandchild to get married. Overall, their families were proud that Craig’s and Kandice’s 13-year courtship had finally resulted in marriage. I was proud of them as well.

As the evening progressed, I found myself engaging in random conversations of politics, sex and religion with various family members and friends, including a priest, a limo driver and a lawyer. It sounded like the beginning of a good joke, but I guess taboo topics of conversation weren’t taboo in The Bahamas. We all cavorted until 2 a.m. or until our babbling turned either belligerent or incoherent, I still can’t remember.

posted by Dre' @ 8/24/2006 09:58:00 PM