Backpacking While Black

Bahamas, August 2006: Day 2, August 25, 2006, Nassau (In the Company of Sharks and Men)

I guess the day before any wedding is full of last minute errands and tensions. Craig’s household was no exception. He had me up too early for my taste, but if I wanted to make the boat for his uncles’ fishing trip I would have to get a move on. Craig’s family had graciously accommodated me for the night. They lived east of Nassau more towards the interior of the island of New Providence. It wasn’t an air conditioned hotel room, but it was worth the opportunity to meet Craig’s family.

I met Craig’s brother and sister, Corey and Renee, a few years ago when they visited Atlanta, but I’ve only known his parents over the phone. Father and Mrs. Eldon didn’t act like the typical holy couple. Father Eldon exuded a firm, but sensitive demeanor playfully arguing with his wife, but making sure to help out in order to keep the peace. Mrs. Eldon was the consummate hostess. Before I had a chance to fully wake up she bombarded me with a list of foods available for breakfast. I was ready to give my order, but Craig stopped me eager to get out of the house and get his day started. She kept asking until he almost through a temper tantrum. Luckily we were saved by a couple of phone calls from Kandice. Ducking Craig’s fire, Mrs. Eldon managed to slip me a good cup of coffee and a couple of pieces of homemade coconut raisin bread. I was thankful for the morning pick-me-up. I was still feeling weary from the previous day’s traveling and partying.

Craig hung up the phone and with a list of things to do from Kandice…well more so from her mother, we were out the door. Craig knew about my desire to see the “real” side of Nassau so he took the opportunity to show me around the side of the capital that most tourists don’t see. The city reminded me of Kingston, glittering on the outside for businesses and tourists, but worn on the inside for natives. I felt right at home.

After finishing errands we arrived at Craig’s uncle’s home. It was the same home that hosted last night’s party. Two of Craig’s uncles, Andrew and Perry, and their friend, Captain Steve, packed up a Mercedes SUV with fishing lines, hooks, weights, bait, water and beer. I was a little apprehensive meeting Craig’s infamous uncles. I had heard stories about their exploits and passion for life. The stories were all true. They were gregarious, forward, impersonal and inspiring all at the same time. They were also brothers in the truest sense. On the way to the boat, they cursed at one another about each other’s faults, but had each others’ backs if someone, including myself, decided to attack with a joke. They were like pirates, but the kind of pirates you wanted to be like when you were a kid.

We arrived at a subdivision were the boat was docked at a friend’s house. We hauled our equipment onto a 25-foot twin engine fishing boat. I saw a huge smile creep over Craig’s face as his ideal bachelor party began to unfold. Before leaving Atlanta, Craig talked to me at length about bottom fishing with his uncles and how that would be the perfect way to spend his last day as a single man. Well, he got his wish. We cast off and headed west to pick up Craig’s brother, Corey, who had the food. I didn’t expect the boat to go as fast as she did, but Uncle Andrew drove her hard. I sat in the front to get a better view, but I soon found out that was the worst place to be at high speeds. My ass took a pounding as we hit the wakes of passing vessels. But through the pain I felt something I haven’t felt for a long time, exhilaration. I’ve never considered myself a daredevil, but I enjoy a good heart pounding moment now and again. My family was always concerned whenever I told them about whitewater rafting, getting caught in Parisian protests or my desire to go skydiving.

After picking up Corey, we spent the next five hours eating, drinking, fishing and pissing off the side of the boat. I was in the company of men and felt damn good about it. Being prim and proper had its moments, but there are times when men just need act like men – grunting, farting, cursing, shouting, cheering, drinking, eating with our bare hands and eventually smelling like fish. I was in macho heaven.

Before this day, I’ve only fished once before in the sixth grade during a camping trip in New Jersey. I was okay, but never bothered to take up the sport again. Bottom fishing was different. There were no poles, just fishing line tied around a hook and a sinker. I put a piece of squid on my hook as bait and threw my line out to a nearby reef. Captain Steve instructed me to feel for a tug on my line as fish bit my bait. I got more than tug on my first try as I suddenly struggled to keep my grip on the line. I thought that this was one of two things: someone else’s line or a rather large fish. I eventually pulled the fish to the surface and to my surprise it wasn’t just a fish, but a three-foot reef shark. It was magnificent. It thrashed around the surface trying to free itself. I could see its razor sharp teeth chomping down on the line. I pulled it up to the side of the boat and out of the water. All the guys were cheering as Craig took trophy shots with his digital camera. I asked if they wanted it on the boat, but the pirates all turned chicken as they gave me a booming “NO!” Lucky for them the shark snapped the line. I watched it speedily swim away thankful that it traded a few seconds of captivity for my lifetime of a memory.

We arrived back at the dock with our fish hold full of red snapper and yellow grunts. I looked at a reflection of myself in one of the boats windows and saw that I had gotten a few shades darker. Luckily I didn’t have sunburn thanks to SPF 30 sun block. My new skin tone would go well the cream groomsmen tuxedos for Craig’s and Kandice’s wedding the next day. We moored the boat and took the time to recount the day’s events over leftover chicken and beer. Despite the stories, I enjoyed my time around Uncles Andrew and Perry. I got to see where Craig gets his crazy side. He had some great teachers.

After saying our goodbyes to Uncles Andrew and Perry, and Captain Steve, we made our way to Nassau Palm Resort and Conference Center (West Bay Street, Junkanoo Beach) to room for the night. Father Eldon got Craig, Corey, the other groomsmen and I a double room so we would all be in one place and not stress out before tomorrow’s wedding. Unfortunately, there was a mix-up with the room and the hotel had given it away. There were no others available because of a volleyball tournament in town. But things happen for a reason. We got another room at the same hotel Kandice and her bridesmaids were staying in, the Nassau Beach Hotel on Cable Beach (West Bay Street, Cable Beach). We were fortunate to stay there because the couple had some drama to take care of and it would’ve been worse if they were in separate hotels. Drama aside, it was a good day for everyone and we were all looking forward to Craig’s and Kandice’s nuptials. I was happy to shower and get the smell of fish off of my skin. After praying with Craig about getting over the evening’s drama and giving Kandice a Bible verse to encourage her, I pulled the covers over my head and knocked out, but that wasn’t before I noticed that my hands still smelled of fish.

posted by Dre' @ 8/25/2006 10:22:00 PM