Backpacking While Black: Coast Starlight Amtrak Train, June 2007: Day 1, June 8, 2007 (All Aboard for all points in Southern California, Bay Area and Sacremento)

Friday, June 08, 2007

Coast Starlight Amtrak Train, June 2007: Day 1, June 8, 2007 (All Aboard for all points in Southern California, Bay Area and Sacremento)

My assignment was to ride Amtrak’s Coast Starlight from Los Angeles to Seattle and document my experience. I had one night in LA’s Chinatown district at the Best Western Dragon Gate Inn (85 North Hill Street). Still groggy from my flight and fighting a sore throat, I arrived at my hotel welcomed by a group of casually dressed martial arts students practicing exercise drills. I meandered my way through hoping not to disturb them. I wondered, “All this in a hotel lobby?!” Actually the Best Western Dragon Gate Inn was built as a part of a shopping complex/community center. A hair dresser, florist, café, cleaners and a post office occupy the whole first floor. All shops open to a central courtyard. Every word I read was translated into Chinese. Every decoration was Chinese. The attendant at the front desk was…Chinese. I wonder why they call it Chinatown?

The next day, after getting some much needed sleep, I made my way to Los Angeles Union Station. Upon arrival to the station, I was blown away at its opulence. I had seen Washington, D.C.’s Union Station and was impressed, but that was more a mall than a station. LA’s Union Station is what train stations were like back in railway heydays in the first half of the 20th century. Its neo-classical design was only augmented by the presence of electronic signage. I toured through quickly as I got my ticket to board the train. I didn’t have much time to spare, but I was able catch a few shots of the track building.

After checking in I went to track 10A to board Amtrak’s Coast Starlight for Seattle. I was met with a silvery two-story high, 12 car long behemoth that was to be my home for the next 35 hours. I remember when I took the Eurostar between London and Paris. I was overjoyed at the prospect of traveling close to 200 mph. This time I was overjoyed at the leisure of traveling about 50 mph while enjoying the scenes of the California countryside. I had booked a roomette, smaller version of a standard room without an in-room shower/sink/toilet. Really, all I needed was a good seat and a window to observe the country roll by.

Service aboard the Coast Starlight started on the right foot. Attendants kept asking if I had everything I needed. My lunch and dinner reservations were taken promptly and at my preference of time. The roomette was clean and incredibly comfortable. I don’t know why people don’t travel by train more often. It’s a beautiful way to see the country at eye level versus from 30,000 feet in the air. Plus if you’re with someone, it’s a great experience to share. The only downside is that passenger trains must give way to freight trains as Amtrak doesn’t own any of the rail lines outside of the northeastern United States, thus creating major delays for passenger rail. Hopefully as people see the light of train travel that’ll change.

Our journey started promptly at 10:15 a.m. The train seemed to glide out of the station, but it quickly caught speed as it cleared downtown LA. We headed north towards the LA suburbs of Burbank, Glendale, Van Nuys and Simi Valley; more commonly known as the TV and movie production capital of the world. I saw the backs of a few small production studios, but nothing major. As we moved out of the city limits things became suddenly rural almost mountainous, actually mountains appeared out of nowhere. Soon we were going through tunnels, climbing hills, descending into valleys. It was more like a lazy roller coaster ride, but I was eager to see the California coastline. I was on the wrong side of the train though, but luckily the roomette across from mine was empty for the time being, so I jumped in between rooms anytime I saw what could’ve possibly been a slight chance of a shimmer of water.

The California countryside bobbled between suburb and farmland for the first couple of hours. Afterwards the farms took over, but soon they were taken over by the mountains and valleys. I had almost given up hope of seeing the water anytime soon until I did a double take at my adjacent roomette and saw the coastline. I had seen many movies about California, surfers, beach bums, etc., but I never thought any of it was true. I was wrong. It was all true. Every few feet there were RVs lining the highway with lawn chairs set up to take in the scenery. I didn’t see many people at first, but as I peered out farther I saw them either lounging on the beach or trying to catch the next wave. As we moved further up the coast we ran along the famed Pacific Coast Highway or PCH which runs along the entire California coastline. I could just imagine driving that road in a convertible Mustang on my way to wine country further north, which was exactly the place where the train was heading. We soon reached Santa Barbara and I took the chance to stretch my legs while taking in some fresh sea air. I was beginning to fall in love with this place; well you could probably call it lust, because it was just on sheer looks. But this part of the trip marked my first promise to come back to California for a longer period of time.

I had a late lunch reservation, so after we boarded the train I went to the Dining Car. My expectations for train dining were set a little high from fantasies fueled by dining car scenes from “Murder on the Orient Express” and the more recent “Casino Royale.” Coming back to reality, I knew that I wasn’t going to get gourmet style food, but the prompt service combined with friendly table mates and the scenery made up for it. I ordered a spinach quiche, chips, side salad, water and the chocolate bundt cake. Meals are part of the sleeping car fare, but a coach class passenger can eat fairly well for under $15 per meal. I’m not a picky eater and was thankful for sustenance on this long journey. Also, there’s only communal seating in the Dining Car. I was seated with a lovely senior couple from Wisconsin who travel cross country via train every year. I asked them why take all that time to sit on a train? They answered that traveling by train was a great alternative to driving an RV, plus it saves on gasoline. Last time I checked the pumps it was still over three dollars per gallon – outrageous! We continued to talk about their travels and the friends and family they’ve visited along the way. If it’s one thing about a train, you’re forced to meet someone, even if it’s just your room attendant.

The route moved further inland as we headed past Vandenberg Air Force Base, one of the Space Shuttle’s alternate landing sites. We took a left towards a group of mountains and started a twisting climb into the Paso Robles, “Pass of the Oaks,” area, known for its wine making and cattle ranching. Within 11 miles we had climb almost 1,000 feet. My ears were already affected by a serious head cold, so I wasn’t the most comfortable, but the scenery soothed me. Sweeping vistas soon gave out as we entered into forests on the way to Oakland, Sacramento and the Oregon/California State Line.

As day turned to night, I put away the camera in order to amuse myself with the complimentary digEplayer I received in L.A. Back at the station, when the attendant offered to me the first time, I was hesitant. I had my laptop, books and my own DVDs, but I wanted to get the full experience of riding this train, so I took him on the offer. I was better off for it. The digEplayers are the size of a typical portable DVD player, but without the DVDs. They come pre-loaded with 12 movies, television shows, music videos, 60 hours of music, Amtrak route guides, city info and much more. They also come in family-friendly versions. The movies were all very current including the Academy Award-winning drama, “The Queen.” I’m a Royals lover so that was my natural first choice. The picture quality was adequate on the eight inch screen. I had the room converted into a bed, so the player’s built-in stand came in handy while viewing on my back.

After one movie I was beginning to feel hunger pangs. Checking my watch, I was late for my dinner reservation, but I never heard the call over the P.A. system. Apparently the system had failed during the trip. Not too miffed, I caught a seat in the Dining Car and had an Angus burger with the New York style cheesecake for dessert. I shared the table with an elderly gentleman who regaled me with stories of his grandson, growing up Black in the 1950s and his achievements as a practicing electrical engineer at 87 years old! After talking with him I formed a new appreciation for my own grandparents and threw away the misconception that age hinders one from leading a fruitful life.

Night time brought a hush to the train as we passed through Sacramento. Station announcements stopped after 9 p.m. as not to wake up passengers. Embarking and disembarking passengers had to rely on their watches and attendants for the right stops. Unfortunately we were running two hours behind, but the conductor made up for it whenever he could.

My room was already converted into a bed, but my attendant had put on sheets, pillows and comforters while I was at dinner. The six foot five inch bed was able to fit my five foot eleven inch body rather comfortably. With the exception of the air conditioning system blowing extremely dry air, I was very comfortable in my roomette. No amount of movies, books or my beloved laptop could keep my attention as I focused on the rhythmic and constant clickity clacks of the train riding the rails. The train got even quieter as the evening wore on. I pulled my shades to give myself some sleeping privacy, shut down my laptop and digEplayer to reflect on my many blessings before I drifted off to sleep, so ending my first 24 hours aboard the Coast Starlight – another 20 to go.

Labels: Amtrak Coast Starlight, biz trip