Bahamas, August 2006: Day 3, August 26, 2006, Nassau (My Best Friend's Wedding)
The day of Craig’s and Kandice’s wedding started with a loud knock on the door.
I only had six hours to fully recover from the previous day's food, alcohol and slight seasickness, but after the third set of knocks it didn’t matter.
Craig and his brother were sleeping heavily so it was up to me to answer the door.
It was Craig’s friend Jamal who I knew when he lived in
Atlanta a few years ago.
With Jamal’s arrival the room started to wake up.
I thought about going for a quick jog on the beach, but I opted instead for a swim and some quiet time.
The beach at the Nassau Beach Hotel was unique for lack of a better word.
One couldn’t just walk into the water, but had to climb down a five foot precipice.
The beach evened out about 100 yards away from the hotel, but I wasn’t up to walking.
After wading in, I splashed, floated, dove and beached myself for about 45 minutes.
It was early enough that the beach wasn’t too crowded.
I had plenty of space to sit in the sand and let the waves sink my feet.
I stared out into the clear sea finding a few minutes of peace.
I was thankful for moments like these on a beach.
They usually marked either a beginning, mid-point and end of a chapter in my life.
This moment marked an end to my friendship with Craig and Kandice as singles, and a beginning of a friendship with Mr. and Mrs. Eldon.
I also reflected on my desire to get married and start a family.
I wasn’t going to rush anything because my best friend was about to get hitched, but observing Craig and Kandice over the past year changed my mind about marriage.
It no longer seemed like a death sentence to someone’s personality.
It was more like the birth of a whole new personality - a shared personality.
But before I had more time to philosophize Cory called me in to get ready with the other groomsmen.
It amazes me that men can take just as long as women to get ready for an event.
I’m thankful that we men don’t have the same curling, polishing, brushing, ironing, more curling, spritzing and finally dressing routine as women.
But with a wedding, all care for manly grooming efficiency goes out the window.
It took five guys the greater part of an hour and a half to shower, iron, brush and “handsomize” ourselves before meeting the limo in front of the hotel.
I tried not to take too long, but the saltwater required extensive scrubbing and shampooing even with my military style haircut.
As we finished dressing, the wedding planner came in to pin on our buttoners – adding the final touch to an already dashing ensemble.
I liked the way I looked in this tuxedo.
I had nightmares about wearing such tropical colors as ivory and pool, but I looked like a dream in the tuxedo.
I was confident to win the affections of every young available bridesmaid, but unfortunately the bridesmaids were either married, Craig’s little sister or Kandice’s best friend.
All were off limits in my book.
We waited for close to an hour before the limo finally arrived to take us to the church.
While waiting the videographer captured some candid moments of the groomsmen trying to keep Craig calm, but we weren’t doing such a good job.
Surprisingly he was already calm.
At some points he was trying to calm us down.
I chuckled as I thought to myself that my friend was really ready to get married or at least go on the honeymoon.
We got into a stretch white Lincoln limousine and headed for the church. I felt weird riding in a limo on an island to a wedding, but I soon noticed that the streets of Nassau were full of limos driving around bridal parties, tourists, dignitaries and anyone else who wanted to go to the beach in style. We arrived at the church within minutes and were ushered into a conference room in the rear of the church. We ended up waiting another 20 minutes. Jamal and I had missed the only rehearsal so we took this time to practice our walks with the bridesmaids. Craig was still surprisingly calm so we didn’t have to find him an emergency shot of alcohol. We did drink copious amounts of water trying to combat the heat in wool suits. Luckily the wedding wasn’t interrupted for a groomsmen’s bathroom break.
An usher finally signaled us to take our positions at the altar. It was Craig, Cory, Robbie (Craig’s neighbor), Jamal and me. Pachebel’s “Canon in D” began to play. As the bridesmaids entered the sanctuary, each groomsman stepped out of line and met the bridesmaid halfway down the aisle. The groomsman bowed and the bridesmaid curtsied. Then the groomsmen took the bridesmaid’s arm and they walked down the rest of the aisle. As they reached the priest, Father Eldon, they bowed and split to rejoin their parties. Even though I was last in the lineup I was the first to meet a bridesmaid. I had to meet Kandice’s beautiful sister Indira. Jamal had Kandice’s other knockout sister, Mia. Robbie had Craig’s sister, Renee. And Cory was with the matron-of-honor, Nicole. Our parties were followed by the ring barer, Zion, and the flower girl who sprinkled red rose petals onto the aisle.
The doors closed while “Canon” faded out slowly and a song called “Parents” by a Greek composer replaced it. When the doors reopened there was Kandice decked out in an ivory wedding dress matching Craig’s all ivory tuxedo. It was a simple off the shoulder dress, but with intricate bead work and a subdued hoop. Even though they weren’t royalty, Craig and Kandice looked the part. She was escorted by her father, Roscoe, the limo company owner responsible for the day’s transportation. He beamed with pride as he escorted his last daughter down the aisle. Kandice wasn’t so much beaming as she was trying not to cry. It sounded like a mix between a nervous laugh and an unstable sob. I tried to make her laugh by crossing my eyes while looking at her, but it didn’t help. She stopped when she was hand in hand with Craig. They always seemed to have a calming effect on one another with the exception of the times when they infuriated each other, but so was the life of any couple.
The ceremony wasn’t too long and Craig’s father, Father Eldon, had the entire sanctuary laughing as he ad-libbed some parts. Father Eldon was a newly ordained Anglican priest and Craig’s wedding was his first to officiate. That added a nice touch to the proceedings as Father Eldon wavered between fatherly advice and Fatherly advice. The ceremony soon drew to a close and after the exchange of rings and vows Craig unveiled his bride and kissed her. The sanctuary erupted in clapping and hollering more from the bridal party than the audience. After they signed their marriage documents, Craig and Kandice made their public statement before the rest of the sanctuary confirming their marriage. With another kiss they exited the sanctuary followed by the rest of the bridal party.
We were all in a jubilant mood. We were so jubilant that we were borderline silly. The photographer was starting to get agitated as he tried to take the bridal party shots in front of the church. We just couldn’t stop laughing. The ride to the reception didn’t curve our laughter either. Mia had snuck a bottle of rum into the stretch Excursion carrying the bridal party. We toasted the bride and groom about four times before we reached the reception at the British Colonial Hilton Nassau hotel (1 Bay Street). When we arrived some of us were a little intoxicated. The alcohol did help us loosen up during another one-hour photo shoot at the hotel’s grand staircase and in the gardens overlooking Nassau Harbor.
Finally, it was time for the reception. After the guests were seated we began the bridal party processional. Indira and I came out first followed by the rest of the couples. After the bridal party was seated the new Mr. and Mrs. Eldon made a grand entrance to the blaring horns and heavy drumbeats of Junkanoo (Bahamian Carnival music). Ever since Craig started planning the wedding he focused most of his attention on the reception. He wanted a party after the pomp and circumstance of the wedding ceremony. Kandice wanted a beautiful wedding hall. They compromised and had a heavenly decorated wedding hall, but with a killer DJ.
The Master of Ceremonies pushed the program along with speeches from the bridal party, the parents and a few special guests. I gave a short speech to honor my best friend of more than eight years and what the new couple meant to me. After more speeches, more drinking, good food and a few tears, it was time for the best part of the evening – dancing. As custom, the bride and groom and their families share the first dances, but as soon as the MC told the deejay to start the party, all the custom and formality was obliterated.
Most of the bridal party went through about two bottles of champagne each and it showed as we twirled around on the dance floor. The groomsmen’s suites were stripped down to the just the shirts and slacks. Luckily the bridesmaid’s dresses stayed on, but their shoes came off during the toasts. I have never had such a great time at any party. I think it had more to do with celebrating love and faith.
Love in the fact that it conquers all family squabbling, individual resentment, time, space and all the things that this world deems worthy. Faith in the fact that it through love is a force more powerful than anything we can imagine. It brought two families together. It made two hearts become one. And it has inspired others to love with all their faith. God bless the union of Craig and Kandice Eldon.
Bahamas, August 2006: Day 2, August 25, 2006, Nassau (In the Company of Sharks and Men)
I guess the day before any wedding is full of last minute errands and tensions.
Craig’s household was no exception.
He had me up too early for my taste, but if I wanted to make the boat for his uncles’ fishing trip I would have to get a move on.
Craig’s family had graciously accommodated me for the night.
They lived east of
Nassau more towards the interior of the
island of New Providence.
It wasn’t an air conditioned hotel room, but it was worth the opportunity to meet Craig’s family.
I met Craig’s brother and sister, Corey and Renee, a few years ago when they visited
Atlanta, but I’ve only known his parents over the phone.
Father and Mrs. Eldon didn’t act like the typical holy couple.
Father Eldon exuded a firm, but sensitive demeanor playfully arguing with his wife, but making sure to help out in order to keep the peace.
Mrs. Eldon was the consummate hostess.
Before I had a chance to fully wake up she bombarded me with a list of foods available for breakfast.
I was ready to give my order, but Craig stopped me eager to get out of the house and get his day started.
She kept asking until he almost through a temper tantrum.
Luckily we were saved by a couple of phone calls from Kandice.
Ducking Craig’s fire, Mrs. Eldon managed to slip me a good cup of coffee and a couple of pieces of homemade coconut raisin bread.
I was thankful for the morning pick-me-up.
I was still feeling weary from the previous day’s traveling and partying.
Craig hung up the phone and with a list of things to do from Kandice…well more so from her mother, we were out the door.
Craig knew about my desire to see the “real” side of
Nassau so he took the opportunity to show me around the side of the capital that most tourists don’t see.
The city reminded me of
Kingston, glittering on the outside for businesses and tourists, but worn on the inside for natives.
I felt right at home.
After finishing errands we arrived at Craig’s uncle’s home.
It was the same home that hosted last night’s party.
Two of Craig’s uncles, Andrew and Perry, and their friend, Captain Steve, packed up a Mercedes SUV with fishing lines, hooks, weights, bait, water and beer.
I was a little apprehensive meeting Craig’s infamous uncles.
I had heard stories about their exploits and passion for life.
The stories were all true.
They were gregarious, forward, impersonal and inspiring all at the same time.
They were also brothers in the truest sense.
On the way to the boat, they cursed at one another about each other’s faults, but had each others’ backs if someone, including myself, decided to attack with a joke.
They were like pirates, but the kind of pirates you wanted to be like when you were a kid.
We arrived at a subdivision were the boat was docked at a friend’s house.
We hauled our equipment onto a 25-foot twin engine fishing boat.
I saw a huge smile creep over Craig’s face as his ideal bachelor party began to unfold.
Before leaving
Atlanta, Craig talked to me at length about bottom fishing with his uncles and how that would be the perfect way to spend his last day as a single man.
Well, he got his wish.
We cast off and headed west to pick up Craig’s brother, Corey, who had the food.
I didn’t expect the boat to go as fast as she did, but Uncle Andrew drove her hard.
I sat in the front to get a better view, but I soon found out that was the worst place to be at high speeds.
My ass took a pounding as we hit the wakes of passing vessels.
But through the pain I felt something I haven’t felt for a long time, exhilaration.
I’ve never considered myself a daredevil, but I enjoy a good heart pounding moment now and again.
My family was always concerned whenever I told them about whitewater rafting, getting caught in Parisian protests or my desire to go skydiving.
After picking up Corey, we spent the next five hours eating, drinking, fishing and pissing off the side of the boat.
I was in the company of men and felt damn good about it.
Being prim and proper had its moments, but there are times when men just need act like men – grunting, farting, cursing, shouting, cheering, drinking, eating with our bare hands and eventually smelling like fish.
I was in macho heaven.
Before this day, I’ve only fished once before in the sixth grade during a camping trip in
New Jersey.
I was okay, but never bothered to take up the sport again.
Bottom fishing was different.
There were no poles, just fishing line tied around a hook and a sinker.
I put a piece of squid on my hook as bait and threw my line out to a nearby reef.
Captain Steve instructed me to feel for a tug on my line as fish bit my bait.
I got more than tug on my first try as I suddenly struggled to keep my grip on the line.
I thought that this was one of two things: someone else’s line or a rather large fish.
I eventually pulled the fish to the surface and to my surprise it wasn’t just a fish, but a three-foot reef shark.
It was magnificent.
It thrashed around the surface trying to free itself.
I could see its razor sharp teeth chomping down on the line.
I pulled it up to the side of the boat and out of the water.
All the guys were cheering as Craig took trophy shots with his digital camera.
I asked if they wanted it on the boat, but the pirates all turned chicken as they gave me a booming “NO!”
Lucky for them the shark snapped the line.
I watched it speedily swim away thankful that it traded a few seconds of captivity for my lifetime of a memory.
We arrived back at the dock with our fish hold full of red snapper and yellow grunts.
I looked at a reflection of myself in one of the boats windows and saw that I had gotten a few shades darker.
Luckily I didn’t have sunburn thanks to SPF 30 sun block.
My new skin tone would go well the cream groomsmen tuxedos for Craig’s and Kandice’s wedding the next day.
We moored the boat and took the time to recount the day’s events over leftover chicken and beer.
Despite the stories, I enjoyed my time around Uncles Andrew and Perry.
I got to see where Craig gets his crazy side.
He had some great teachers.
After saying our goodbyes to Uncles Andrew and Perry, and Captain Steve, we made our way to Nassau Palm Resort and
Conference Center (West Bay Street, Junkanoo Beach) to room for the night.
Father Eldon got Craig, Corey, the other groomsmen and I a double room so we would all be in one place and not stress out before tomorrow’s wedding.
Unfortunately, there was a mix-up with the room and the hotel had given it away.
There were no others available because of a volleyball tournament in town.
But things happen for a reason.
We got another room at the same hotel Kandice and her bridesmaids were staying in, the Nassau Beach Hotel on
Cable Beach (West Bay Street, Cable Beach).
We were fortunate to stay there because the couple had some drama to take care of and it would’ve been worse if they were in separate hotels.
Drama aside, it was a good day for everyone and we were all looking forward to Craig’s and Kandice’s nuptials.
I was happy to shower and get the smell of fish off of my skin.
After praying with Craig about getting over the evening’s drama and giving Kandice a Bible verse to encourage her, I pulled the covers over my head and knocked out, but that wasn’t before I noticed that my hands still smelled of fish.
Bahamas, August 2006: Day 1, August 24, 2006, Nassau (Arrival, Beach, Conch and Celebration)
The clouds took on the random shapes of animals, objects and even countries as I was lying on my back in the crystal clear Caribbean waters of The Bahamas. An hour before I was on a rough flight from Miami praying for rest and stability. I was traveling since 4 a.m. and even though I considered myself an even keeled traveler, I was beginning to unravel as sleep deprivation took its hold. I was here for my best friend’s, Craig’s, wedding to his high school sweetheart, Kandice. They had picked me up from Nassau International Airport and within an hour they took me to a beach off West Bay Street near Kandice’s parent’s home. I soon realized why Craig and Kandice, native Bahamians, missed their homes so much. It was paradise in every sense from the food, people and atmosphere.
Within the second hour of my arrival I was enjoying the chewy yet delectably sinful national dish of The Bahamas, conch. We had added Kandice’s best friend and matron of honor, Nicole, to our group and ate lunch at the Twin Brothers (Arawak Cay, West Bay Street) restaurant in the popular Nassau hangout officially called Arawak Cay, but unofficially and widely known as the Fish Fry. I was famished seeing that I was surviving on a croissant sandwich meal from Burger King eaten at 5 a.m. I ordered a large plate of conch fritters with Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese, and plantains. Now, let’s get this straight. I officially love Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese. American macaroni and cheese is soupy. Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese is firm, baked and gooey much like lasagna. The sweet plantains complimented the spicy conch fritters. Altogether, the whole meal was tropical comfort food. I topped everything off with a sky juice, coconut water mixed with gin, condensed milk and nutmeg. The food, alcohol and sleep deprivation caught up with me as I found myself knocked out in the front seat of Craig’s car.
Craig and Kandice were merciful as they dropped Nicole and me off back at Kandice’s parents to rest. The evening’s festivities would require our full energy. Craig’s family was throwing him a party at his uncle’s home in the hills east of Nassau. After two hours of blissful napping, we woke, showered, dressed and sweated our way to the party. It took a while for my body to adjust to the heat and humidity. Thankfully there was a strong breeze from the ocean, but the breeze’s effects were negated as we drank copious amounts of Kalik (Bahamian beer) and wine, and ate more Bahamian-style macaroni and cheese, and chicken. The bridal party was fully assembled with the exception of two people so we took the opportunity to introduce ourselves to each other and get drunk together.
Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t here to get drunk, but there was a definite atmosphere of celebration amongst Craig’s family. I believe he was the first grandchild to get married. Overall, their families were proud that Craig’s and Kandice’s 13-year courtship had finally resulted in marriage. I was proud of them as well.
As the evening progressed, I found myself engaging in random conversations of politics, sex and religion with various family members and friends, including a priest, a limo driver and a lawyer. It sounded like the beginning of a good joke, but I guess taboo topics of conversation weren’t taboo in The Bahamas. We all cavorted until 2 a.m. or until our babbling turned either belligerent or incoherent, I still can’t remember.
The day of Craig’s and Kandice’s wedding started with a loud knock on the door. I only had six hours to fully recover from the previous day's food, alcohol and slight seasickness, but after the third set of knocks it didn’t matter. Craig and his brother were sleeping heavily so it was up to me to answer the door. It was Craig’s friend Jamal who I knew when he lived in 
